Tuesday, March 8, 2011

Red Medicine

Minutes go by. Forty five minutes to be exact and still no sign of my dinner companion.

This was to be my last meal in LA and as a finale I opted for Red Medicine, the controversial modern Vietnamese canteen. Decor is simple, kept to a minimalist approach save a few wood accents here and there. There is no door sign or flashy neon light that helps patrons recognize any hint of this recent headliner. And the parking sucks or lack of parking, I should say.

So my dinner companion saunters in while I'm sipping an over-sweetened Krome Vodka with specks of basil floating around which I blindly mistake for nori. (Might have been more interesting if it was nori). He glances around, peruses through the menu and utters, "This place operates on really high margins."

Really?

A "sorry for the delay. Parking was shitty" would've been nice. But I digress...

Many swear by the Pork Chaud-Froid, a blend of chicken skin, lychee, clove, and pistachio. I couldn't make heads or tails of it. A bizarre taste that doesn't leave one wanting more - an awkward combination of plaids and stripes. Yes, awkward would be the best way to describe Jordan Kahn’s creations. Although some dishes work awkwardly well, if such is possible. Take, for example, the kobocha, burnt onion, Chinese sausage, chrysanthemum, crème fraiche.


 A seemingly United Nation of ingredients that should leave battle scars on the tongue but manage to produce symbiotic results. The aftertaste reminded me grandma's bubbling concoction of Chinese herbs, dried sea horses and other odd sorts. This and the "Banh Mi" stole the show.

"Banh Mi" little sandwiches of foi heaven

The dishes are a mouthful to enunciate and the flavors are anything but subtle; bordering on sweet and herbaceous. Red Medicine is definitely a breath of fresh air to the Los Angeles dining scene.
Quick Tip: parking structure on adjacent street

Red Medicine
8400 Wilshire Blvd.

Beverly Hills, CA 90211
323-651-5500


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